Photo courtesy of Left Bank Brasserie

It's that time of year again -- Beaujolais Nouveau, the “first wine” of the harvest season is being fêted at Larkspur's Left Bank Brasserie November 20.  The celebration features Georges Dubœuf, Beaujolais-Villages, Nouveau, 2014 ($9.00 per glass, $27.00 per carafe, $36.00 per bottle), plus a celebratory $46.00 three-course prix fixe menu available for lunch and dinner in addition to the restaurant's regular à la carte offerings. The prix fixe price excludes beverage, tax, and gratuity and each course can also be served à la carte. The menu, with al la cart pricing as well is:

Appetizer

Terrine de jambon persillée, céleri-rave a la graine de moutarde

et croûtons à l'ail $12.00

herbed ham terrine, whole grain mustard, celery root salad, garlic crouton

or

Quenelle de poisson sauce Nantua $15.75

traditional baked fish dumpling, crayfish sauce

Main Course

Le bœuf Bourguignon $26.00

24 hour Beaujolais marinated beef stew with aromatic vegetables,

bacon, pearl onions, and mushrooms

Dessert

La tarte amandine aux poires et cassis, crème a la pistache $8.00

Burgundy style pear and huckleberry almond tart,

pistachio whipped créme fraîche

Left Bank Brasserie Larkspur

507 Magnolia Avenue

Larkspur, CA 94939

(415) 927-3331

www.LeftBank.com

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Left Bank Larspur Celebrates 20

It all began in Larkspur 20 years ago with the original Left Bank.  It has grown to be a family of three restaurants in the San Francisco Bay area headed up by Propriétaire and CEO Ed Levine and Chief Culinary Officer Roland Passot.

From September 18 through 27 the celebration will showcase on the dinner menu classic from-the-past items: La Quenelle Lyonnaise with scallop and salmon mousse and a saffron cream sauce; La Tarte Lyonnaise (in the style of Chef Passot’s hometown), a leek and onion tart with applewood smoked bacon; La Bouillabaisse, a fragrant seafood stew from Marseille served with rouille croutons; and Coq au Vin, chicken stewed with red wine, pearl onions, lardons and mushrooms.

Many alumni who have taken a turn at the Left Bank are now names in the industry. A press release notes, "On the occasion of this milestone anniversary, Levine and Passot note with great pride the number of culinary luminaries who have able to propel their careers thought their association over the years with Left Bank. These include Richard Reddington, Proprietor, Redd and Reddwood; Shelly Lindgren co-founder, A-16 and SPQR; Todd Kniess, Bistro Liaison; Ralph Hershom, formerly Beverage Director with La Cirque and now at Ralph’s Wine and Spirits in Rye, NY; Erik Romme, Executive Chef Menlo Grill at the Stanford Park Hotel; Erik Oberholtzer, founder Tender Greens; Sean Canavan, Regional Chef Tender Greens; Michel Tersiguel, owner and Executive Chef of Tersiguel’s in Ellicott City, Maryland; Jim Vandercook, CEO of Eddie V’s; and Mario Vega, Managing Partner, Eddie V’s Restaurants, Inc. Levine adds, "I vividly remember the day in 1994 when the New York Times' Bryan Miller heralded the restaurant and then Focus Magazine ranked us the top North Bay new dining spot, ahead of French Laundry. Later that same year we were featured in Gourmet Magazine.""

Currently Chef de Cuisine Fabrice Marcon is responsible for the menu, with emphasis on seasonal, often locally sourced organic ingredients.  

The restaurant is open for lunch and dinner Friday and Saturday from 11:30 a.m. to 11 p.m., Sunday through Thursdan from 11:30 a.m. to 10 p.m. and Sunday brunch at 11 a.m.

Left Bank Larkspur
507 Magnolia Ave.
Larkspur, CA 94939
(415) 927-3331
www.leftbank.com/home_larkspur

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Loco for Mole

Hungry after a work out at 24 HR Fitness at Marin Country Mart in Larkspur, I paid the neighboring El Huarache Loco a visit for lunch.

All the offerings are neatly listed on adjacent blackboards. I chose the Mole "El Huarache Loco" ($10). It is described as "Veronica's recipe for chicken mole comes from her family's restaurant in Mexico City". Veronica is the owner and started this in La Cocina in San Francisco, a nonprofit food business incubator. El Huarache Loco is one of its success stories.

The mole was deep, rich and very satisfying. I detected hints of dark chocolate. It was accompanied by rice and creamy beans as well as tortillas. The service was prompt despite a hungry throng in the restaurant.

El Huarache Loco

1803 Larkspur Landing Cir.

Larkspur, CA 94939

(415) 925-1403

huaracheloco.com

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Vive la revolution!

Bastille Day cometh!  Whether you are French or not  have fun celebrating the French Revolution and the storming of the Bastille. On the day, July 14, Left Bank Brasserie in Larkspur will be celebrating in style with staff dressed in Moulin Rouge garb, as well as decorations in same theme, plus live music, and caricature artist Jon Casey will be available to sketch guests from 6:30 to 8:30 p.m.  Live music will be provided by Orgue de Barbarie musician Michel Michelis who will play from 6:00 to 9:00 p.m. Besides the regular menu, celebratory al la carte menu specials will be served.  Selected menu items include smoked pistachio sausage wrapped in brioche dough with lamb’s lettuce salad and truffle sauce; herb rubbed Provençal roasted rack of pork with porcini sauce, green beans and baked potatoes; and Provençal fish stew with branzino, local snapper, mussels, clams and prawns served with garlic toasts and spicy aioli.

Left Bank Brasserie Larkspur 

507 Magnolia Avenue

Larkspur, CA 

(415) 927-3331 

www.LeftBank.com

Previously reviewed:

November 9, 2009

January 15, 2007

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An Enchanted Evening

A friend and I decided to try an evening at The Tavern at Lark Creek when Chef Bradley Ogden was making a guest appearance.  I'll bottom line it here: Chef Ogden is making a guest appearance one more time this summer, and it's a great opportunity for a delicious evening!  More details on the last opportunity on August 25 at the end of the post.

Years before I moved to Marin, I came to the bay area on frequent business trips.  I remember driving by the grove of Redwoods by the the Lark Creek Inn, and thinking it was the patch that reminded me most of my hometown area north of Seattle.  It was what attracted me to put Marin at the top of my list when I was transferred here and was looking for a home.  And finally I was eating under this very grove!  

It was such a pleasant evening, the weather was just right and the setting was elegant.  My friend chose to go with Chef Ogden's prix fixe $35 menu.  

So she started with the Organic Cucumber and Heirloom Tomato Salad, as did I.  This was exquisite!  So fresh and bursting with flavor!

The next course on the special prix fixe menu was Mom's Meatloaf with garlic mashed potatoes and Blue Lake Beans.  My friend raved about this dish.  She reported that the meatloaf seemed to be made out of delicious and tender steak, very meaty.  And the potato flavor of the potatoes actually showed through beautifully.  And the beans had a nice snap.

I diverged to try one of the regular menu items, Idaho Rainbow Trout, brown butter, hazelnuts and  zucchini hazelnut salad with sauce gribiche.  It was delicious, and I especially was interested in the zucchini salad as it was so tender.  I wasn't sure if it were steamed or just lightly marinated.

My menu questions were answered since both Chef Ogden Bradley and Chef Aaron Wright came out and strolled among the tables to introduce themselves and find out how guests were enjoying their meals.  Chef Bradley mentioned that the zucchini were lightly marinated.  Chef Wright and I chatted about Canlis in Seattle where he once was chef, and I knew from growing up in the area.

Instead of the Caramel Swirl Angel Food Cake with plum and blueberry compote that would be the finale of the prix fixe menu, my friend chose the Lemon Cheesecake Brulée, with peach coulis, and strawberries.  I took a taste; it was remarkable.  Creamy with distinct flavors of peach and strawberries with the cooling sensation of lemon.

I chose the Strawberry Shortcake, with vanilla cream biscuit, mascarpone, and fresh berries.  It was a great old fashioned version.  Growing up in what once was the strawberry capital of the world (Marysville, Washington) summer isn't summer unless you've enjoyed one of these.

The Redwood grove was cooling off, and my friend and I had a leisurely and delicious evening.  Our waiter even quoted us a poem in perfect cadence.  What a night!

What I missed was going to the market that morning with the chefs.  August 25th one can start the day by meeting up with the chefs at the Marin Farmers Market at the Star Route Farms booth at 9:30 a.m.  Shop together and get tips on picking the best produce.  In the evening will the final dinner with Chef Ogden, reservations recommended.  The menu for the 25th is:

Corn Chowder with corn and shrimp fritter, parsley pesto

Grilled Albacore Tuna with warm tomato bread salad and tomato basil sauce

Coconut Cake with buttermilk ice cream

Watermelon Margarita (for an additional $9.50)

Restaurant Inspection Results
Critical: 1
Noncritical: 0
Last inspected: 3/22/2011

Nouveau Tarte

It was a warm and beautiful day in Larkspur, and the perfect parking spot appeared! So I found myself visiting an old favorite, the Left Bank at the Blue Rock.

The interior is still warm and inviting, and I was sitting next to the fireplace with a good view of most everything. The waiter was quite friendly and brought me an iced tea while another brought some fresh French bread!

I went a little crazy for caramelized onion and cheese, first ordering this flavorful French Onion soup. The stock was great and it had lots of soft and simmered onions.

I ordered a Caramelized Onion and Mushroom Tarte which was also topped with melty cheese. I have to say this was not your mother's french tarte! I had imagined a petite, well - tarte! This was more like a French flatbread pizza and took up an entire dinner plate! I took some home and had it again for dinner with some vegetable soup. It was tasty, just unexpected, and I realized my faux pas in ordering two dishes with onions and cheese as main ingredients.

Restaurant Inspection Results

Critical: 0

Noncritical: 1

Last inspected: 7/3/2008

Previously reviewed:

January 15, 2007

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Great kid place

I tried M & G Burgers in Larkspur last evening for a quick bite. It has a unique spirit, and there are lots of kids watching the Tom & Jerry cartoons projected on the wall with quiet sound, while the strains of rock & roll are louder on the other speakers. Seemed a good way to please - both the young ones and the teens are happy in this atmosphere. Organic hot dogs? Of course then organic beef and salads as well as the standard burgers. It was packed with people, and the staff were still friendly.

I chose one of their best buys - a fish burger with fries and a drink. The bun was a little mushed, but tasted fresh none the less the fish and fries were HOT! And the condiments came in eco-friendly paper cups on the side. I enjoyed my retro meal sitting in a brightly colored wooden chairs while watching the cute bevy of kids inside. There is also an M & G Burgers in Fairfax.

Restaurant Inspection Results

Critical: 0
Noncritical: 3
Last inspected: 7/31/2009

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"Mom's Home Cooking" Japanese style

There is a mother in the house! The long time hostess of Larkspur's Fukusuke is still serving Japanese home style cooking, personality intact! She makes the place. A soft heart with a commanding exterior, Fukusuke is her domain. She has always been attentive to me and checking up on the food coming out of the kitchen. No worries there, it's always been great.

A delicious set of Cabbage Salt Pickles and Cucumber Salad appears right after your order is taken.

This trip to Fukusuke reminded me of the value of a carefully made miso soup. It often separates, leaving a glass-like top to billowing clouds of tasty miso base suspended in the soup. This one was delicious with depth and complexity.

I chose to have the Teriyaki Salmon Dinner. It was perfectly grilled, and felt, well - meaty! It has a lovely texture and flavor. The Japanese slaw was also fresh, crisp and wispy looking. I enjoyed it. If you like Japanese home cooking, this is a great stop. Don't expect much in the way of sushi, it is not that style of restaurant.

Restaurant Inspection Results

Critical: 0
Noncritical: 1
Last inspected: 5/9/2008

Previously reviewed:
December 15, 2007

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Thai on a beautiful afternoon

Dad and I were in the neighborhood one sunny day, and the recommendation of Maxine, on staff with one of Dad's physicians, triggered a recollection of the lovely R'Noh Thai, and recognition that it was quite close by in Larkspur.

We sat on the deck and had an expansive view from under the yellow umbrellas.

There was a $2 add on for a list of appetizers, so we had to add. I chose the Fresh Roll.

Dad was craving the Spring Rolls. Both appetizers were delicious!

Dad followed the Spring Rolls on with BBQ Chicken and Almond Rice. I'm thinking that Dad liked it as he asked "Why don't we come here more often?"

I loved the fresh green salad on the plate with my rice.

The Yellow Curry with Tofu was very smooth and very flavorful and bursting with colorful vegetables. I loved my lunch and was glad that Maxine brought up this place!

Restaurant Inspection Results

Critical: 0
Noncritical: 1
Last inspected: 7/24/2008

Previously reviewed:
January 2, 2007

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Quality persists

Dad and I stopped by Tha Siam at Larkspur Landing the other evening for dinner. The interior is meticulously maintained, and the paintings made with metal shimmer, and look as bright and new as the last time I visited. It is truly a unique and inviting space.

We decided to start with the Vegetarian Spring Rolls, which were excellent and had a pleasing crunch.

We followed it with a simple Yellow Curry with Shrimp.

Which paired beautifully with Brown Rice. The rice had a nuttiness to it, and the mild yellow curry created a smooth yet complex taste sensation.

We also ordered the Shrimp Pad Thai. It hit a perfect balance between sweet and sour. The tofu was also nicely prepared by frying the blocks before cutting and stirring into the mix. This is a lovely Thai restaurant to visit when you have a chance.

Restaurant Inspection Results
Critical: 0
Noncritical: 0
Last inspected: 5/29/2008

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Previously reviewed:
January 3, 2008
February 21, 2007

and another goodbye

Yikes! Every time I turn around we're losing a restaurant! Noonoan's in Larkspur is now closed. The Marin IJ cued me in that Saturday was it's last night open. Apparently this closure was due to not being able to agree on a new lease rate. Larkspur Landing has a new owner, who intends to redevelop the mall into a 'country mart' style. Interestingly, there are public gardens planned where tenant restaurants will be able to grow their own fruits and vegetables. I hope that security is planned, as I was talking with a local restaurant owner who does this next to his restaurant, and has found large pots of herbs and ripe produce disappearing overnight.

Hidden delights

There's a neighborhood Italian place in Larkspur, Ambrosia Pizza which blends in to the point of being easily overlooked from the street. This would be a mistake. Not only is there an extensive menu, with an extensive specials list, but an amazingly large choice of wines by the glass.

The service was friendly and prompt. In fact I had hardly voice the 'd' at the end of Caesar Salad, when it arrived in front of me! This was a generous portion of salad, cool and well dressed.

I was drawn to their Linguine with Clams. I was wary when it first arrived as I'm not a fan of 'soupy' sauces. However, I sipped a little, and was floored by the amazing flavor. I kept sipping the broth until nearly dry thinking is was so good that I wouldn't mind if the broth was all I had room to eat! I did tuck into the noodles, and found that these were cooked to the al dente degree that I liked. And there were SO many clams, both fresh and additional chopped, layered all through the noodles. These I couldn't finish. I'd come here again in a heartbeat.

Restaurant Inspection Results
Critical: 1
Noncritical: 5
Last inspected: 2/7/2008

I love Dungeness Crab!

And guess what's happening at Yankee Pier in Larkspur (and other locations) until the end of the month? The 20th Annual Dungeness Crab Festival is on, featuring local, sustainable Dungeness Crab in various fresh ways every day.

I treated myself to a Dungeness Crab Louie. It was made with very tender yet crisp butter lettuce, chopped egg, silky smooth ripe avocado and deliciously fresh crab meat. It was great! The waiter was most helpful and attentive as well.

Restaurant Inspection Results
Critical: 0
Noncritical: 1
Last inspected: 8/6/2008

Previously reviewed:
January 8, 2007

Friendly brew pub

Friendly and community oriented, Marin Brewing Company also serves up good food. Although this is hardly a scientifically based comment, I recall over the years what seems like more than the average number of events sponsored by Marin Brewing Company to benefit nonprofit or community oriented causes.

In the neighborhood one day, Dad & I stopped by for a quick lunch. The staff were quite friendly and considerate of my Dad in particular. This Teriyaki Vegetable Stir Fry was sauced just perfectly and the veggies were a nice crisp tender texture.

Dad went with the standard Veggie Burger smothered in Jack cheese and lettuce, tomato and onion. Dad was particularly happy with the garden-fresh salad that he could substitute for the fries for a small upcharge. It was a beautiful day and all went well in every aspect, service, food and reasonable price.

Restaurant Inspection Results
Critical: 3
Noncritical: 1
Last inspected: 12/18/2008

Previously reviewed:
May 13, 2007

Tough times, literally

On our previous visit to Sushi ko we were quite impressed and enjoyed the experience immensely. We thought it a good time to revisit Sushi ko for dinner one recent evening.

Dad and I came early so there were only a couple other parties in the restaurant. It was clean and quiet and the service was prompt. My meal came with a miso soup, which came out promptly. The soup stock tasted great, but I was swishing around the bowl looking for the usual ingredients. There were only two very tiny cubes of tofu and a small piece of wakame inside. Miso is cloudy, so it wasn't as though they were trying to be decorative. When I finished the soup, the Chirashi Don that I ordered came out and looked gorgeous in its lacquer bowl.

The trouble began when I dipped my chopsticks down through the fish to grab a little rice. Clunk! The wooden sticks ran into something that wasn't giving way. There was a layer of nori (laver seaweed) on top of the rice. Putting sheet nori on rice in obentos (decorative lunchbox meals) is not uncommon in Japan, but they use TENDER nori sheets that are not a problem to break apart with your chopsticks. These were like old nori, where they've been kept in the cupboard too long and turned leather-like (yes, this is what happens to nori kept too long). Then, when I finally got to the rice, it was not sushi rice, just plain. I found myself obsessed with trying to taste the sweet sour vineagar and rice wine tang with every bite. Not a recipe for enjoying your meal. The only time I tasted a little tang was the small spot of rice under the ginger, and we know it wasn't because of it being sushi rice. The fish and seafood topping was fresh -- that's the only good thing other than the pretty appearance than can be said for this disappointing dish.

Dad had the Chicken Teriyaki entree which came with salad. Dad was obviously having a difficult time chewing the chicken. I noticed he had bitten into one end and was pulling hard with a fork on the other. The bottom line is that it was TOUGH. If you are squeamish, stop here. I kid you not, this is what happened next. I look down and when I look up, Dad is asking "Did I forget to put in my teeth?". My mind started racing as I see that his upper lip is sunk in, with no teeth to hold its shape! I was sure that he had his full set in when we left the house! Did he swallow them - oh no- oh he couldn't have, he'd be choking! I said lamely, "Are you sure that your uppers aren't in there somewhere? I mean really, how could a denture plate hide itself somewhere else in his mouth! Then he said, "Oh here, I've found them" as he puts his fork on the salad and pulls something toward him. Yes, there his teeth were, nested atop of the salad pearly side up with a stringy piece of chicken strip laying in the hollow! Oh the perils of eating out with the elderly! Someday I'm going to write a post on the traps that restaurants inadvertantly set, blocks to the ability of older people to enjoy a dinner out.

Now given our experience tonight, with my Dad muttering all the way home, "That's the toughest bird I ever ate", I can't imagine coming back in the near future. However, we had quite the opposite experience the previous visit, so all hope is not lost. I'll just have to get this visit out of my mind first...

Restaurant Inspection Results
Critical: 0
Noncritical: 3
Last inspected: 11/25/2008

Previously reviewed:
January 13, 2007

Leave with that glowing look

I didn't intend to stop for dinner at Table Cafe in Larkspur, but if it's that time, you are in the neighborhood and emphasizing eating local, who would pass it up? Table Cafe exclusively uses only organic, local and sustainable produce. And you can taste it.

They've added a nice touch of a fresh pappadum treat for the table.

Dad and I tried their limeade with mint. Although it was hard to pass up the ginger spritzer, or carrot and ginger juice. But we like trying new offerings. I loved how this was refreshing and smooth without being cloyingly sweet.

Seeing Mission figs with fresh ricotta, lavender and honey on the blackboard fresh list, loving figs the way I do, these were not to be resisted. And it was a good call. Dad and I enjoyed these fresh and refreshing bites with the surprise scent of lavender inside.

My entree was the smoked wild salmon with grilled frisee and onions, and aioli. I had a side of apple-ginger-onion salsa with it. It was a wise pairing which was both interesting and satisfying. Unfortunately since this stop was so unscheduled, I had no camera other than my cell phone camera which can sometimes be quite unpredictable for quality. I took six blurry photos of Dad's marinated and grilled chicken breast with wilted spinach and got cheese with his condiment of avocado-orange salsa. It looked good and he liked it. These were both fusion style dosai. If one is inclined to meat, especially lamb, their lamb meatballs with parsley, pickled onions, cabbage and tahini is not to be missed. And one day I'm going to get here for brunch and try the scrambled farm eggs with curry spiced potatoes and spinach, dosai style.

Dad spied the sweets on the counter coming in and really wanted to sample. So we split a fresh creamy strawberry scone and luscious chocolate chip cookie. These were pure yum. All this while eating local, in more ways than one! I'm not sure if the glow when you leave is from all the health-giving foods, or the happiness of being treated to such pure and amazing taste combinations.

Previously reviewed:
March 21, 2008
February 9, 2007
September 10, 2005
June 24, 2005