Friendly earnestness. I found myself close to the heart of Mill Valley at lunchtime, and thought that it was time to revisit Amberjack Sushi. Amberjack is small, and attentive to details. Good food attracts traffic, and at 11:45, this place was already packed, so I pulled up at the sushi bar. It was a great spot as I had a bird's eye view of the kitchen as I waited, and I could see all the directed, careful and clean activity taking place. This place is serious about giving you a delicious and well-prepared dish! I started with miso soup, which was well flavored and had good depth.

I then asked for a special favor, which they accepted without skipping a beat, substituting tofu for chicken in the oyako don. What arrived wasn't so much this exact thing, as a beautiful riff on a theme. Yes, there was the egg and onion, but the chef also adjusted the seasoning broth and viscosity of the sauce to produce something altogether a delight for the palate. There was nothing bland about this, being savory yet sweet and very satisfying. Amberjack is a pleasant neighborhood place which has good food.

Previously reviewed:
September 21, 2006